Comments for Big Job Tools http://www.bigjobtools.com/blog Get the tools you need to get the job done Sat, 04 Feb 2012 10:58:52 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.7.1 hourly 1 Comment on what mm electrical cable do I need to run the following? by James O http://www.bigjobtools.com/blog/what-mm-electrical-cable-do-i-need-to-run-the-following/comment-page-1/#comment-7560 James O Mon, 03 Jan 2011 20:58:31 +0000 http://www.bigjobtools.com/blog/what-mm-electrical-cable-do-i-need-to-run-the-following/#comment-7560 For your own good ignore Barry and The Tank!!! WTF is a 20A RCB? A cable calc is required here and the volt drop is important. Need the length of run.<a href="http://www.supersportsstore.com/paddle-7825"> James O</a> For your own good ignore Barry and The Tank!!! WTF is a 20A RCB? A cable calc is required here and the volt drop is important. Need the length of run. James O

]]> Comment on what mm electrical cable do I need to run the following? by Barry in Seneca http://www.bigjobtools.com/blog/what-mm-electrical-cable-do-i-need-to-run-the-following/comment-page-1/#comment-7559 Barry in Seneca Sun, 02 Jan 2011 03:47:52 +0000 http://www.bigjobtools.com/blog/what-mm-electrical-cable-do-i-need-to-run-the-following/#comment-7559 To be safe, 50Amp 220VAC service would be good. You could use a small welder, heaters, AC or compressor. It's a lot easier running a bigger cable now than having to go back later. Plus, you didn't say how far away the garage is, and running a small cable (like #12) a long distange will cause you to lose voltage, which could damage your fridge or a compressor motor. You will need a cable with 3 conductors and a ground. The cable will need to be the UF (underground feeder) type. For 50A service you will need a # 6 AWG cable. (40A = 8AWG, 70A = 4AWG) The cable needs to be deep enough so that it will not be damaged. I'd go at least 1' under a driveway, you can go less in other areas. Make sure there are no rocks against the cable when you backfill the hole. The cable needs to be in conduit (the gray PVC is OK) where it comes out of the ground and goes to the breaker boxes. In the electrical box in your house, the red & black wires will connect to the 50A circuit breaker for your garage. The white and bare (or green) wires will connect to the neutral/ground terminal. You will have another circuit breaker box (called a Subpanel) in the garage. The Red & Black cables will go to the input terminals of the box. (The main breaker can be any size since your breaker in the house is protecting the entire circuit.) Code requires that it have a neutral terminal strip which is not connected to the box or ground. It is only tied to the white ground wire coming from the house. The ground terminal strip (buy this separately) is connected to the box's case and the bare/green wire from the house.<a href="http://www.resumeminers.com/Recruiting.htm"> Barry in Seneca</a> To be safe, 50Amp 220VAC service would be good. You could use a small welder, heaters, AC or compressor. It’s a lot easier running a bigger cable now than having to go back later. Plus, you didn’t say how far away the garage is, and running a small cable (like #12) a long distange will cause you to lose voltage, which could damage your fridge or a compressor motor.

You will need a cable with 3 conductors and a ground. The cable will need to be the UF (underground feeder) type. For 50A service you will need a # 6 AWG cable. (40A = 8AWG, 70A = 4AWG)

The cable needs to be deep enough so that it will not be damaged. I’d go at least 1′ under a driveway, you can go less in other areas. Make sure there are no rocks against the cable when you backfill the hole. The cable needs to be in conduit (the gray PVC is OK) where it comes out of the ground and goes to the breaker boxes.

In the electrical box in your house, the red & black wires will connect to the 50A circuit breaker for your garage. The white and bare (or green) wires will connect to the neutral/ground terminal.

You will have another circuit breaker box (called a Subpanel) in the garage. The Red & Black cables will go to the input terminals of the box. (The main breaker can be any size since your breaker in the house is protecting the entire circuit.) Code requires that it have a neutral terminal strip which is not connected to the box or ground. It is only tied to the white ground wire coming from the house. The ground terminal strip (buy this separately) is connected to the box’s case and the bare/green wire from the house. Barry in Seneca

]]> Comment on is it possible to completely disassemble a truck with just a few tools and no experience? by idontgivafork http://www.bigjobtools.com/blog/is-it-possible-to-completely-disassemble-a-truck-with-just-a-few-tools-and-no-experience/comment-page-1/#comment-7503 idontgivafork Fri, 31 Dec 2010 18:24:34 +0000 http://www.bigjobtools.com/blog/is-it-possible-to-completely-disassemble-a-truck-with-just-a-few-tools-and-no-experience/#comment-7503 no ifs ands or buts,you will need sockets and endwrenches,and a metal saw or grinder at the least<a href="http://www.djthings.com/hardware-13038"> idontgivafork</a> no ifs ands or buts,you will need sockets and endwrenches,and a metal saw or grinder at the least idontgivafork

]]> Comment on How can I remove an old brick patio? by pontgranprix http://www.bigjobtools.com/blog/how-can-i-remove-an-old-brick-patio/comment-page-1/#comment-7528 pontgranprix Fri, 31 Dec 2010 08:14:35 +0000 http://www.bigjobtools.com/blog/how-can-i-remove-an-old-brick-patio/#comment-7528 A company might pay you to rip them out if they are clay pavers and they are in good shape. If not hire someone to rip them out. It will be hard work with out power tools.<a href="http://www.familylawmadeeasy.com/child-support-law.htm"> pontgranprix</a> A company might pay you to rip them out if they are clay pavers and they are in good shape. If not hire someone to rip them out. It will be hard work with out power tools. pontgranprix

]]> Comment on is it possible to completely disassemble a truck with just a few tools and no experience? by PAUL P http://www.bigjobtools.com/blog/is-it-possible-to-completely-disassemble-a-truck-with-just-a-few-tools-and-no-experience/comment-page-1/#comment-7502 PAUL P Fri, 31 Dec 2010 07:43:57 +0000 http://www.bigjobtools.com/blog/is-it-possible-to-completely-disassemble-a-truck-with-just-a-few-tools-and-no-experience/#comment-7502 Hi Go for it. It`s a great way to learn and may be you can sell some of the parts.<a href="http://www.chefcookingware.com/992"> PAUL P</a> Hi
Go for it. It`s a great way to learn and may be you can sell some of the parts. PAUL P

]]> Comment on can i use a 18 volt battery from a drill in a 18 volt circular saw? by misfitter http://www.bigjobtools.com/blog/can-i-use-a-18-volt-battery-from-a-drill-in-a-18-volt-circular-saw/comment-page-1/#comment-7537 misfitter Thu, 30 Dec 2010 17:09:35 +0000 http://www.bigjobtools.com/blog/can-i-use-a-18-volt-battery-from-a-drill-in-a-18-volt-circular-saw/#comment-7537 NO It has to be the same brand to fit the tool.<a href="http://www.proofficesupply.com/avery-office-supply.htm"> misfitter</a> NO

It has to be the same brand to fit the tool. misfitter

]]> Comment on what mm electrical cable do I need to run the following? by JASON M http://www.bigjobtools.com/blog/what-mm-electrical-cable-do-i-need-to-run-the-following/comment-page-1/#comment-7558 JASON M Thu, 30 Dec 2010 10:14:08 +0000 http://www.bigjobtools.com/blog/what-mm-electrical-cable-do-i-need-to-run-the-following/#comment-7558 Quick answer - 4mm² cable will suffice for a 32A load for up to 20 metres. Long answer - Obviously we can't give you an accurate answer because we don't know the distance between the house and the garage. The first thing that comes to mind is that you may have copper pipework in the garage (since you are running a kettle), so you need to check your supply type. If your supply type is PME (or TNCS) then you will need to run 10mm² armoured cable in order to provide an adequate earth connection. The alternatives will be to run a seperate 10mm² cable for the bonding and a smaller multicore for your power, or to use a seperate earth rod in the ground. If your supply isn't PME, or if you have no metal pipework or steelwork in your garage, then you can select the cable according to design current and voltage drop. Looking at the appliances you want to use, you could employ a ring circuit (32A) and a lighting circuit (6A), or two radial (2x20A) circuits for power and a lighting circuit (6A). The size of the cable is determined firstly by the size of the fuse which supplies the new consumer unit in the garage. You are likely to need a 32A supply. If you intend to use the kettle, fridge and power tools all at the same time, then you could consider a 40A supply, but it probably won't be necessary. So - if you intend to fit a 32A switchfuse or breaker in the house, then you can work out the cable size: 4mm² armoured cable has a volt drop of 352mV per metre. You can have a maximum of 7.2v drop, so you can have a maximum run of 20 metres before you need to upsize to 6mm² cable. 6mm² armoured cable has a volt drop of 234mV per metre, allowing a run of 30 metres 10mm² armoured cable is good for 50 metres and this will also provide you with a 10mm² earth conductor which you can use to export your bonding. 16mm² cable will be good for up to 80 metres. Hope this isn't too confusing. Ask your electrician about exporting earths. If you're not sure if you have a PME supply, have a look at the supply head (where the big fuse is). If the main earth cable is attached to the sheath of the supply cable, then you have a TNS supply and not PME. If the main earth cable comes out of the neutral terminal next to the main fuse, then you have a PME supply. There may also be a warning label saying that it is PME. Oh - and when you get your cable, make sure you ask for three-core armoured cable. Don't use the armour as an earth. (It needs to be connected TO earth, but don't use it as the main conductor.) It's not that you're not allowed to, it's just that it will mess up your calculations.<a href="http://www.resumeminers.com/student-loans/"> JASON M</a> Quick answer -

4mm² cable will suffice for a 32A load for up to 20 metres.

Long answer -

Obviously we can’t give you an accurate answer because we don’t know the distance between the house and the garage.

The first thing that comes to mind is that you may have copper pipework in the garage (since you are running a kettle), so you need to check your supply type. If your supply type is PME (or TNCS) then you will need to run 10mm² armoured cable in order to provide an adequate earth connection. The alternatives will be to run a seperate 10mm² cable for the bonding and a smaller multicore for your power, or to use a seperate earth rod in the ground.

If your supply isn’t PME, or if you have no metal pipework or steelwork in your garage, then you can select the cable according to design current and voltage drop.

Looking at the appliances you want to use, you could employ a ring circuit (32A) and a lighting circuit (6A), or two radial (2×20A) circuits for power and a lighting circuit (6A).

The size of the cable is determined firstly by the size of the fuse which supplies the new consumer unit in the garage. You are likely to need a 32A supply. If you intend to use the kettle, fridge and power tools all at the same time, then you could consider a 40A supply, but it probably won’t be necessary.

So - if you intend to fit a 32A switchfuse or breaker in the house, then you can work out the cable size:

4mm² armoured cable has a volt drop of 352mV per metre. You can have a maximum of 7.2v drop, so you can have a maximum run of 20 metres before you need to upsize to 6mm² cable.

6mm² armoured cable has a volt drop of 234mV per metre, allowing a run of 30 metres

10mm² armoured cable is good for 50 metres and this will also provide you with a 10mm² earth conductor which you can use to export your bonding. 16mm² cable will be good for up to 80 metres.

Hope this isn’t too confusing. Ask your electrician about exporting earths. If you’re not sure if you have a PME supply, have a look at the supply head (where the big fuse is). If the main earth cable is attached to the sheath of the supply cable, then you have a TNS supply and not PME. If the main earth cable comes out of the neutral terminal next to the main fuse, then you have a PME supply. There may also be a warning label saying that it is PME.

Oh - and when you get your cable, make sure you ask for three-core armoured cable. Don’t use the armour as an earth. (It needs to be connected TO earth, but don’t use it as the main conductor.) It’s not that you’re not allowed to, it’s just that it will mess up your calculations. JASON M

]]> Comment on WOULD YOU SAY THAT 630 PM IS TO LATE FOR SOMEONE TO BE USING POWER TOOLS OUTSIDE? by House825 http://www.bigjobtools.com/blog/would-you-say-that-630-pm-is-to-late-for-someone-to-be-using-power-tools-outside/comment-page-1/#comment-7493 House825 Thu, 30 Dec 2010 08:15:34 +0000 http://www.bigjobtools.com/blog/would-you-say-that-630-pm-is-to-late-for-someone-to-be-using-power-tools-outside/#comment-7493 No. Some people don't get home from work to even start any projects til 6:00 pm or later. They should stop by 9 pm. And they also should not start on the weekends til 9 a.m. That's too early for some people, but it's reasonable.<a href="http://www.cargearusa.com/srch/srch.php?q=hitch"> House825</a> No. Some people don’t get home from work to even start any projects til 6:00 pm or later.

They should stop by 9 pm.

And they also should not start on the weekends til 9 a.m. That’s too early for some people, but it’s reasonable. House825

]]> Comment on is it possible to completely disassemble a truck with just a few tools and no experience? by Jethro http://www.bigjobtools.com/blog/is-it-possible-to-completely-disassemble-a-truck-with-just-a-few-tools-and-no-experience/comment-page-1/#comment-7501 Jethro Thu, 30 Dec 2010 06:14:05 +0000 http://www.bigjobtools.com/blog/is-it-possible-to-completely-disassemble-a-truck-with-just-a-few-tools-and-no-experience/#comment-7501 yes look at the stripped cars in the hood, do you think they used power tools ?<a href="http://www.safedebthelp.com/tax-debt-help.htm"> Jethro</a> yes look at the stripped cars in the hood, do you think they used power tools ? Jethro

]]> Comment on WOULD YOU SAY THAT 630 PM IS TO LATE FOR SOMEONE TO BE USING POWER TOOLS OUTSIDE? by Jake No Chat http://www.bigjobtools.com/blog/would-you-say-that-630-pm-is-to-late-for-someone-to-be-using-power-tools-outside/comment-page-1/#comment-7492 Jake No Chat Thu, 30 Dec 2010 02:28:59 +0000 http://www.bigjobtools.com/blog/would-you-say-that-630-pm-is-to-late-for-someone-to-be-using-power-tools-outside/#comment-7492 Depends on the proximity of the homes, and if there are kids around that go to bed early. I think 6:30 PM is a little early to put away the power tools. 8 PM may be good if there are young kids around and the noise travels. 9 PM may work as a good cut-off time. I think many areas have established noise regulations that do not start until later, perhaps 10 PM. If someone is doing something that is disturbing you, then have a nice chat with them and let them know. There likely will be some things that can be done for the good of all.<a href="http://www.resumeminers.com/online-degree/master-online-degree.htm"> Jake No Chat</a> Depends on the proximity of the homes, and if there are kids around that go to bed early. I think 6:30 PM is a little early to put away the power tools. 8 PM may be good if there are young kids around and the noise travels. 9 PM may work as a good cut-off time. I think many areas have established noise regulations that do not start until later, perhaps 10 PM. If someone is doing something that is disturbing you, then have a nice chat with them and let them know. There likely will be some things that can be done for the good of all. Jake No Chat

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